With each passing season, the union between fashion and technology seems to grow ever stronger\u2014with the latter coming to terms with the importance of wearability and aesthetically-pleasing design. Chromat is leading the charge on the sartorial side, having partnered with Intel on their Spring 2016 Momentum collection, they have seamlessly melded designer Becca McCharen\u2019s architecture background with sportswear and scientific knowledge.<\/p>\n
The collection included pieces such as the enthralling Adrenalin dress, whose sensors enlarge the piece\u2019s carbon-wire lattice back with ascending levels of the hormone\u2014as might the wings of an insect\u2014giving all new meaning to the term \u201cadrenaline rush,\u201d and the Aeros Sport Bra, whose vents immediately unlatch or close depending on the temperature of your body and your perspiration. The latter utilizes Curie\u2014a module designed by Intel (not even Marty McFly and Dr. Emmett Brown could have imagined this).<\/p>\n
McCharen is also addressing issues of diversity within the industry. Though designs are looking more like the futuristic pieces we envisioned when we were growing up, fashion is still quite antiquated when it comes to representing the faces and figures of the multitude of women who buy into the industry. McCharen\u2019s latest catwalk show featured several models of color as well as plus-size models Sabina Karlsson and Denise Bidot. It\u2019s no surprise that she was one of the finalists for the CFDA\/Vogue Fashion Fund this year, with Diane von Furstenberg going on record to describe her immense talent in an interview with Business of Fashion.\u201d<\/p>\n
We caught up with McCharen in her studio to discuss what the CFDA\/Vogue Fashion Fund process was like, her diffusion line BOND, and why Kim Kardashian is a goddess. \nYou\u2019re now a part of the CFDA\/Vogue Fashion Fund family. What was that process like for you? \nTransformative. Validating. Illuminating. Creative. I would have never dreamed I would be bonding with Diane Von Furstenberg, or sharing laughs with Anna Wintour. It\u2019s been a dream come true for someone from the small town of Lynchburg, Virginia who had a Vogue subscription at 16.<\/p>\nPhoto by Dillon Sachs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
That opportunity undoubtedly opens a ton of doors, as does mentorship. How do you figure out what\u2019s best for your brand to move forward with and what isn\u2019t? How do you stay on track? \nThe mentors and judges from the fund have validated what we see in Chromat as our focus: empowering women with well-fitting swim, lingerie, and athletic wear combined with an emphasis on innovation through nontraditional materials and new technology.<\/p>\n
What\u2019s one thing you\u2019ve learned from the CVFF mentorship [CFDA\/Vogue Fashion Fund\u2019s mentorship program sees established designers mentor young brands for a period of one year]? \nGoing through the process further emphasized that as a fashion label, we should always explore what makes us curious and inspired, versus just designing for gaps in the marketplace or to reach sales goals.<\/p>\n
When you were pursuing a degree in architecture, did you ever think you\u2019d end up putting those skills to use for a fashion line? \nNo, never. I grew up in Virginia. I\u2019d never met a fashion designer before in my life. This was before Project Runway, and I didn\u2019t even know it was a job that someone like me could do. As a teen, all I saw was the consumer-driven side of fashion through magazines and TV. It took me many years to realize at the center of the industry were artists: people who were interested in materials and creating new things.<\/p>\n
You describe your pieces as \u201cstructural experiments for the human body.\u201d Is that how you see fashion? As experimentation? \nYes. Coming from architecture, we treat the body as a building site; an opportunity for material intervention, augmentation and enhancement.<\/p>\n
You\u2019ve delved into lingerie, swimwear, sportswear, and your trademark cages. Are there any other categories you\u2019d like to explore? \nI love the transformative power of makeup, and how accessible it is. I\u2019d also love to collaborate with my architecture friends and work in built environments again.<\/p>\n
Talk a little bit about your diffusion line, BOND by Chromat. What led you to embark on that? \nBOND by Chromat grew out of our desire to create something carefree and fun, using more color and print. We hope to see BOND continue to grow as an accessible gateway into the Chromat world.<\/p>\n
\u201cThere is a severe and damaging under-representation of diversity\u2014race, size, and gender spectrum\u2014in mainstream fashion and popular media today. The feeling of being invisible in an industry or culture you participate in is so damaging and hurtful. I refuse to participate in the silencing and erasure of all the many diverse forms of beauty and inspirational women that exist in the world today.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
You collaborated with Intel to take wearable tech to the next level. Do you see \u201csmart clothing\u201d as the next frontier of fashion, much like the way smart phones have changed technology and communication? \nOne hundred percent. Just like buildings change and adapt to users (through operable facades, ventilation, circulation), clothing should do the same. Your garments should be able to adapt to your body and your environment as you move through spaces and time.<\/p>\n
I also believe 3D printing has the potential to change fashion in the same way that MP3s changed music. Imagine a world in which each fashion collection was available for instant download online, on iTunes (or perhaps iPrint). You could then apply your personal body scan data to the print file, adjust the file to custom fit your shape and preferences, and then print the clothing out in your home.<\/p>\n
There is so much left to be discovered and it\u2019s something I stay up late thinking about.<\/p>\n
You\u2019ve commented on the lack of female designers at big fashion houses. What do you think is the reason for that? Would you ever design for another brand if given a chance? \nThere is a lack of female designers at big fashion houses because of our history of patriarchy, of course. The fashion system has been owned and operated by men and sold to female consumers for centuries. The university I graduated from only started allowing women to attend 45 years ago: imagine how different the world would look if that gender bias were reversed. It\u2019s so disturbing that men are dictating what we as women wear and how we view our bodies.<\/p>\n
Would I ever design for another brand? Definitely! I\u2019ve dreamed of having the tools, material, budgets, and access to research and development labs and technical staff of large fashion companies. The process of innovation could move so much quicker if our team was bigger. Right now, Chromat is just 4 staff and a few interns. A lot of people are surprised by that.<\/p>\nPhoto by Dillon Sachs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
You\u2019ve featured plus-size models Sabina Karlsson and Denise Bidot on the runway, as well as offering a Curve line. What do you think of the current state of fashion\u2019s size issue? How are you hoping Chromat will move the conversation along? \nWe design clothing for strong, powerful women in whatever shape and form they inhabit. There are absolutely no rules and no boundaries on who can and cannot wear Chromat.<\/p>\n
However, there is a severe and damaging under-representation of diversity\u2014race, size, and gender spectrum\u2014in mainstream fashion and popular media today. The feeling of being invisible in an industry or culture you participate in is so damaging and hurtful. I refuse to participate in the silencing and erasure of all the many diverse forms of beauty and inspirational women that exist in the world today. Women of all races, sizes, and gender presentations are doing big things and inspiring the next generation\u2014they should be celebrated in fashion!<\/p>\n
You\u2019ve named Kim Kardashian as your dream Chromat girl. How important is red carpet dressing for you? Are there any other stars you would love to see in your designs? \nKim is a goddess. I love seeing women succeed at all levels and if you can make it look easy and effortless (like she does), all the better for you.<\/p>\n
Red carpet looks haven\u2019t been a focus at Chromat, but maybe they will be in the future. Our structural language can be applied to the body in many different ways.<\/p>\n
As far as whom I\u2019d like to see in Chromat, Bj\u00f6rk tops the list. She represents a constant focus on experimentation and fearlessness. Each new album she creates is completely different from the last and that is how we at Chromat approach each new collection.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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